Shingle Roof Repair
Asphalt shingles have been around for more than 100 years. Originally made from rags, then paper, and now with a fiberglass core, some styles are no longer available. There are a variety of architectural shingles with new profiles. Some provide lifetime guarantees, increased wind resistance, and material and labor warranty coverage.
Shingle Repair & Maintenance
Older roof shingles become worn, cracked, or broken. Shingle roof repair by Eastman Roofing will outlast your existing roof and is fully backed by our roof repair warranty. Combine our shingle roof repairs with roof maintenance, and a costly roof replacement may be postponed.
Contact us at Eastman Roofing for Shingle Roof Repair in San Jose, Santa Clara, and the bay area.
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Common Shingle Roof Repair Problems
Exposed Intermat
The asphalt holding the mineral or granule surface has worn off, exposing the fiberglass intermat. Exposed intermat is like a bald tire with the cord exposed. It can allow seepage and should be replaced soon.
Mineral Loss
The mineral surface is wearing off and causing cracking in shingles; when shingles are severely damaged they allow water intrusion. We recommend replacing this roof. This could be a manufacturing defect, lack of proper ventilation which over heats the shingles or just normal wear and tear. If the shingles are severely damaged, they will allow water intrusion.
Minute cracking in shingles
If severe, shingles will leak and roof must be replaced. This is caused from a manufacturer’s defect or lack of ventilation which overheats the shingles, causing the oils to deplete in the asphalt, or normal wear and tear.
Not Enough Pitch for This Kind of Roof
Minimum pitch required is 2/12 with two plies of felt for 2/12 up to 4/12 pitch. It is not to code, and the manufacturer will not warranty this installation. A built-up roof – cap sheet, tar and gravel, modified bitumen, PVC, etc. is approved for this pitch. This installation can leak at any time. It should be replaced.
Broken Shingles
Broken shingles which could be from wind damage or premature roof failure. Replace shingles and/or apply elastomerics to broken shingles. It may be time to replace the roof.
Slipping/Delaminating
Improper location and number of fasteners will cause the roof shingle to come apart or delaminate, especially on steep-pitched roofs. If it is not severe, it can be repaired by re-nailing with the proper number of fasteners in the proper location. If it is severe, it should be replaced.
Missing Shingles
Some roof shingles are missing; usually a result of wind damage. Over time, the self-sealing glue strip fails and with strong winds, the shingles uplift and are damaged and/or break. If the glue strip has failed, the shingle damage will continue with any strong winds. Apply sealant under the shingles that are not adhered and install new shingles where missing or broken. If severe, replace the roof.
Improper Fastener Size
The installer used nails that are too short. We were able to pick up shingles and nails because the nails did not penetrate the sheeting. This entire roof is just lying on top of the roof deck. Eventually, the glue strip will fail and the wind will blow the roof off. The roof is not installed to code and the manufacturer will not honor their warranty. The roof can be re-nailed with the right size fasteners, or replaced.
Shingles are Overexposed
Manufacturers will not honor their warranty if shingles are not installed per their installation guidelines. The pitch or angle of the roof and the overlap of the shingles causes the rain water to pass from shingle to shingle as it runs down the roof. If there is not enough overlap, water can get under the shingle, resulting in seepage. If it is severe, the only way to repair this is to replace the roof.
Shingle manufacturers require a minimum shingle offset. If there is not enough offset, water can seep under the roof and the misapplication would not be warranted by the manufacturer. If it is minor, sometimes a piece of flashing can bridge the improper offset. If it is all over, the roof must be replaced.
Woven Valley
Shingles on the intersecting roof surfaces may be applied toward the valley from both roof areas simultaneously. This causes “bridging” or uplifting of the shingles and can lead to seepage. It is not the preferred application method by shingle manufacturers. The best way is to fully lace the low side plane through the valley so a full shingle is in the valley and then the second plane is installed and cut straight 2” up with the valley centerline, called a “closed-cut” valley.
Install metal “W” valleys by cutting the roof shingles before they lace through the valley, leaving the shingles about 2” from the apex for a water channel. This application is recommended for Grand Manor, Landmark TL, Presidential Shake and Presidential TL. However, the biggest issue with this type of installation is when debris builds up in the valley, which causes water to back up and seep into the structure. Also, as the shingles age, they get brittle and can break off in strong winds.
Valley is Miswoven
The installer failed to overlap the valley centerline a minimum of 12”. Sometimes the underlayment prevents seepage for a while. When the underlayment fails, it results in seepage. This type of leak typically shows up with strong winds and heavy rains and/or from debris. The valley must be reinstalled correctly.
Overlap Apex Too Far
Shingles at top of valley overlap apex too far. This forces water under the roof and can cause seepage. The overlapping shingles should be 2” from the apex of the valley. Trim shingles back from apex of valley.
Debris on the Roof
This can cause water to back up and allow seepage. It can also cause dry rot in the roof deck, which in turn leads to premature roof failure. Remove the debris.
Tree/Bush Growing Over Roofline
This can break the shingles and damage the roof. The solution is to trim the tree/bush away from the roof line.
Broken Skylight
The amount of time it takes for the plastic dome to break down depends upon the quality of the plastic used to make the skylight. The dome can sometimes be replaced. It is easier just to replace the whole skylight. Some manufacturers give a lifetime warranty, even for plastic domes. Glass is heavier and more expensive than plastic. Glass has a higher R-value and lasts indefinitely.
Flashing Popped Up
Nails have come loose, allowing the flashing to uplift. This can allow seepage with strong winds. Replace nails with screws where lifted, add more screws as necessary.
Collar at Vent Missing/Not Sealed
The collar was never installed. Install missing collar. Apply sealant between pipe and collar to prevent seepage.
Gap at Plumber’s Flashing
This space between the flashing and the pipe should be sealed. Some people use sealant, which has to be resealed. Some people seal with tape, which is better. Some people seal with an EPDM collar, which is guaranteed for the life of the roof and is the best solution. Reseal to prevent seepage.
Gutter in Stucco
When the house was built, the sheet metal installer put the gutter too close to the stucco paper. When the stucco was applied, it went around the gutter, not behind it. Over time the gutter joint can deteriorate, allowing seepage in the wall. Remove the gutter, cut the end back, reinstall the gutter end, repair the wall with waterproofing materials, then reinstall the gutter.
Counter-flashing Not Sealed
Counter-flashing is what bridges a roof to wall intersection, a chimney, etc. If it is not sealed, water can get behind it and seepage can result. This is usually a simple repair – apply elastomerics.
Loose Counterflashing
Counter-flashing is what bridges a roof-to-wall intersection, a chimney, etc. If the counterflashing is loose and not sealed, water can get behind it and seepage can result. Re-anchor counterflashing and apply elastomerics
Valley Installed Incorrectly
The valley is too short. The gutter has no wing and the roof deck is exposed. If this is left in its present condition, the roof deck will develop dry rot. Flash the eave below the bottom of the valley.
Plywood/Edge Exposed
The gutter has no wing (the continuous part of the gutter that goes under the shingles). A gutter with no wing needs ‘ell’ metal or nosing installed to divert water into the gutter and off the roof deck. Flash the edge to protect the roof deck from dry rot. NOTE: If there was no gutter, the eave should have ‘ell’ metal or nosing to protect the roof deck.
Gutter Popped Out/Loose
The gutter was never fastened properly and/or the downspout was clogged and the weight of the water caused it to come loose. If the gutter is not reattached and oriented properly, the eave will get wet and dry rot will result.
Plastic Gutter
Plastic gutters do not come with a wing. The plastic gutter company makes a plastic diverter to divert the water into the gutter. If it is not installed, the edge of the roof deck will develop dry rot.
Gutter Wing Too High
Gutter and eave are not oriented properly. The ‘wing’ of the gutter is higher than the plane of the roof deck, which creates a ledge, causing the shingles to “cup” and lift up at the bottom. This directs the water to the overhang and causes dry rot. Adjust the gutter or take the roof apart, fir up the plane of the roof to get rid of the “cup,” install appropriate underlayment, and reinstall roof shingles.
Solar Penetration/No Diverter
No diverter installed above roof penetration and sealant is dried out, which can allow seepage. Install water diverter and reseal.
Step Flashing Mis-Woven
Each course of shingles should have a step flashing installed at the roof to wall intersection to prevent water intrusion at the wall. Take the roof apart and orient step flashings correctly.
Improper Step Flashings at Skylight
The installer used one step flashing for more than one course. This can allow seepage. Replace with new step flashings, one per course.
No Hem In Step Flashing or Mastic
As of February 2006, Presidential and Presidential TL shingles must have a bead of mastic applied at the outside edge of the step flashing or the outside edge of the step flashing has to have a hem. If this is not done, it is not warranted by the manufacturer, does not meet code, and seepage can occur. Take roof apart and apply mastic, then reinstall shingles.
Step Flashing Behind Wall at Bottom
Step flashing is designed to bridge the roof to wall transition and allow for protection against water intrusion. Water, which runs down the roof and wall, is caught by the step flashing and channeled to the roof’s edge. This provides a direct path for water to flow behind the wall surface and into the building. Often this type of leak takes time to show and may only be noticeable in heavy rains, giving the water time to soak enough to be evident. It is important that the step flashing’s end be flared so it sticks out past the siding/stucco. Cut out the old flashings and install new. Repair the siding and seal it.
Improper Step Flashing at Wall
The installer used one step flashing for more than one course. This can allow seepage. Replace with new step flashings, one per course.
Starter Course Not Staggered
Starter made and recommended by the manufacturer has a glue strip already applied at the factory. When the manufacturer’s starter is used, the manufacturer’s warranty applies. However, it is cheaper to use cut 3-tab shingles or rolled starter, which has no glue strip. If there is a no glue strip, then periodic dabs of mastic is required under the first course, to meet code. If the first course is not adhered, it is susceptible to blow-off in strong winds. If the starter course is not adhered to the first course, apply proper adhesive.
Shingles Not Sealed to Starter Course
Starter made and recommended by the manufacturer has a glue strip already applied at the factory. When the manufacturer’s starter is used, the manufacturer’s warranty applies. However, it is cheaper to use cut 3-tab shingles or rolled starter, which has no glue strip. If there is a no glue strip, then periodic dabs of mastic is required under the first course, to meet code. If the first course is not adhered, it is susceptible to blow-off in strong winds. If the starter course is not adhered to the first course, apply proper adhesive.
No Starter Course Used in Top Roof
This is a shortcut on a re-cover when the original roof was not torn off. The old original roof was used and will deteriorate before the new top roof, exposing the roof deck at the eaves, causing dry rot. Take the roof apart, and install the missing starter course. If the top roof is near the end of its useful life, you may be able to flash the deteriorated or exposed areas.
Exposed Nail
Over time the nail will rust if it’s not protected by the course above. It can eventually allow seepage. It does not meet code, the manufacturer’s specification, nor the manufacturer’s warranty. Remove damaged shingle and replace with new. Or, remove the nail, lift the damaged shingle and apply a dab of mastic in the punctured area, lay the shingle back down, making sure the mastic comes out the puncture on top of the shingle. Re-nail the shingle correctly under the shingle above.
Tie-In Not Sealed Properly
The intersection between your pitched roof and the flat roof is called the “tie-in.” This area is important because there are two different roofing materials that must be integrated correctly. The bottom roof must go under the top roof properly, to shed water.
Flashing At Bottom Roof Only
No saddle, step shingles, counter-flashing, to weave chimney and roof together in top roof, flashing in bottom roof only. The installer cut corners by not taking the time to integrate the existing flashings or new flashings in the top roof. This can allow seepage. Install new flashings, integrate the old flashings and/or apply sealants.
Vent Cap Rusted Out, Damaged, Missing
Over time, exhaust from appliances will corrode and deteriorate the vent; damage from termite fumigation people, or wind can cause the top to blow off. Repair or replace vent cap as needed.
Vent/Pipe Jack Not Woven Properly
Some vents/pipe jacks are not woven properly and have been sealed with asphaltic mastic, which is cracking. This could be a retrofit after installation, or from the original installer. It can allow seepage. Take the roof apart, weave flashing into the roof correctly and/or apply sealants as needed. If new shingles are needed, they may not match existing shingles.
Vent/Pipe Jack Base Sticking Up
The original installer did not anchor the base of the flashing. Over time, strong winds cause the base to lift. Reanchor and seal as needed.
Abandoned Plumber’s Flashing
Often during a remodel, when plumbing is moved, new flashings for pipes are installed and the old flashings are left open. Cover hole in old flashings with sheet metal.
Ridge Cracked Open
Damaged ridge comes from: 1) Ridge materials were not designed to last the life of the shingles; 2) Blow-off from strong winds; 3) When it was applied, it was cold, and applying it stressed the material; 4) Foot traffic damaged it. If it is minor, it can be flashed underneath and sealed on top with sealant. If it is severe, the ridge must be replaced.
No Water Channel
Roof shingles at metal valleys, skylights, chimney, vents, valleys, and pipe jacks can be too tight, allowing no water channel. Trim shingles to create a water channel.
Separated Flashing Seam
The intersection of the base and cone of this plumber’s flashing is a mechanical joint. If separation occurs, it will seep water. It has been sealed before with caulking and is leaking again. It can be resealed, or replace the flashing.
Nail in Valley
The intersection of two pitched roof areas, a “valley,” receives more water flow than any other part of the roof. Manufacturer guidelines do not allow for fasteners in the valley. Fasteners must be a minimum of 6” away from the valley centerline. This is an installation error and will allow seepage. The only way to properly repair this issue is by redoing the valley. Follow the manufacturer’s guidelines.
Plastic Boots Used
Plastic gaskets have cracked open or are concave. The sun eventually damages the gasket that is mechanically fastened to the galvanized base, which can leave a large opening for water intrusion. Replace the flashing or reseal with rubberized asphalt.
Improper Orientation at Gable End
Barge rafter sits on top of the roof deck at the gable end. Sealant has been applied to seal this intersection. This will leak in time. It can be resealed repeatedly. The permanent solution is for the shingles to go under the barge rafter.
Rusted Flashing
Steel metal flashings exposed to the elements can rust over time. This area should have been painted and maintained. Today’s flashings are made out of galvanized metal, a process that protects the steel core from rusting. Rust cannot be simply sealed over; it will continue to grow. The rust needs to be treated chemically, then sealed properly. Since the rust is open to the surface and flashings are vital to the integrity of your roof system, we recommend repairing the rusted flashing areas before seepage causes structural damage.
Roof Puncture
Punctures are a major concern because there are no roofing materials like “flashings” to integrate into the roof system, protecting the building from water intrusion. These can be a result of an antenna base, eye-hooks, a phone bracket, electrical insulators, anchors for cable wires not having been sealed, and/or sealant cracking. Apply elastomerics, re-seal.
Uplifting Fasteners
At the time of shingle installation, “high nails” are not noticeable if the installer does not adjust the nail flush, and damage can result. When the asphalt shingle seals to itself, a tight bond is formed. “High nails” begin to protrude through the top surface of the shingles. Rusting and seepage can occur.
Roof Overlay
This can be an acceptable practice. It is a way to escape the cost of roof tear-off, flashings and underlayments. Manufacturers offer poor warranties when the new roof is not installed directly to the roof deck. Shingle overlays cause rapid wear of the primary roof system as they trap moisture and “bake” the original roof.
Step Shingle Not Sealed
Step flashings are usually installed behind the siding or under a counterflashing installed in the wall. If they are installed outside the siding, usually it’s a retrofit or an overlay. Some cities allow this if the flashings have been sealed at the wall with elastomerics and fabric. These step flashings are painted but not sealed. Apply elastomerics. Others to paint.
Patio Cover on Roof not Sealed, Not Flashed
When a patio cover is installed on top of a roof, sealant should be applied under the block that touches the roof and a metal diverter should be installed above the block. If this is not done, it can result in seepage. Seal blocks and install a water diverter.
No “Ell” Flashing
The original installer did not extend the ell flashing to the end of the wall. The wall is open to seepage. Install missing flashing.
Improper Skylight Installed
This skylight is designed to be installed in flat roof systems. It has a built-in flashing that is part of the skylight frame. It is not designed to be installed in a shingle roof. Mastic has been applied to seal it to the roof. It is not to code. It may or may not work? For how long? The only proper remedy is to replace the skylight and install proper flashing.
No Overlap At Skylight
The flashing does not go up high enough for the skylight frame to overlap the flashing and the wood curb is exposed. This is open and will allow seepage. Remove the skylight and install a counterflashing on top of the curb that overlaps the flashing on the side.
Wood Counterflashing Open
When the new roof was installed, the step flashings were put on the outside of the wall. A piece of 1 x 4 redwood with a 45 degree tapered angle on top was used to cover the step flashings. It was sealed with a bead of caulking on top and the sealant has failed. Reseal with urethane. This will have to be maintained for the life of the roof to prevent seepage.
Solar Pipe Penetrations Not Sealed/Sealant Cracked Open.
Apply elastomerics and install a water diverter above the penetration.
No Step Shingles/Flashing
No step shingles/flashing at roof and wall intersection in top roof, caulking only and caulking is cracked and open. Put step shingles/flashing at roof and wall intersection where not woven behind wall. Apply elastomerics and polyester fabric to counterflash as needed. (Owner to paint as needed)
Step Flashing Slipping
The step flashing was never anchored and has slid out, allowing seepage. Reorient step flashing and anchor.
No Shingle Mold
No shingle mold was installed to protect the roof deck at the gable end. The shingles did not overhang the gable end enough. The roof deck has dry rot. Remove shingles, repair dry rot, install shingle mold, install shingles.
Presidential Sidelap Incorrect
This is an application error. This material has a unique setback pattern. If it is not followed, there is no manufacturer’s warranty. Because the shingles line up instead of being offset, it is susceptible to seepage.
Chimney Flashing Improper
The chimney flashing is in the first roof. Top roof is set in mastic that is cracked open, which is not to code and not covered under manufacturer’s warranty. Reorient bottom flashing and/or reseal with mastic.
Chimney Chase Leaks at Top
A chimney chase is usually a wood framed box. The pipe for the fireplace goes through the box and out the top. Typical roof chimney flashings are installed then siding covers the framing and overlaps the chimney flashing. Last a metal top is installed which allows the chimney flue to go through to the outside air. The metal top usually has a metal piece that prevents water from flowing down the opening in the metal top. The flue usually has a collar that overlaps the metal piece on the metal top. The flue usually has a metal top to prevent water from going down the inside of the flue. Any one of these items in this assembly can leak if not done correctly or if it has deteriorated. Invest all the potential issues and effect a repair.
Skylight/Flashing/No Overlap
The flashing does not go up high enough for the skylight frame to overlap the flashing and the wood curb is exposed. This is open and will allow seepage. Remove the skylight and install a counterflashing on top of the curb that overlaps the flashing on the side.